Kerma

I’m sorry I haven’t written in awhile but I have been busy with school work and some other things. But there is still more to tell about my trip to Dongola. After the Eid, we still had a full day in Mashu before heading back to Khartoum and Amar’s uncle mentioned to me that there were some ancient ruins nearby. Being a history buff, I am always interested in historical sites so we set off for the ancient city of Kerma. The ruins are outside of a town on the other side of the Nile from Mashu so the journey itself was pretty cool. Amar’s uncle, Abubeida, has lived in Mashu his whole life and he was our tour guide for the day. He first showed me some old buildings in Mashu that were really neat. We saw the remains of the first mosque ever built in Mashu and some very old houses. The houses were built out of mud and they had these huge doors that were ornately decorated and very beautiful. We also walked through an old cemetery and saw an old burial mound. Abubeida pointed out the bones and even pulled out a tooth from the mound. Although it might sound weird, I kept the tooth and it’s now sitting on my bedside table. An interesting souvenir, for sure. We then made our way down to the river and caught a ferry to a big island in the Nile across from Mashu. When I say ferry, I mean an old, beat up, flat-bottom boat with a little outboard engine. Although it was a short trip, maybe 250 meters, it was very pleasant and I couldn’t help but think about all the people throughout history that have ridden boats across the Nile River. We then walked across the island which was very cool. The island is covered in what are essentially date palm forests with small houses tucked in among the trees. It was very beautiful and the people living on the island obviously live a very simple life. There are no cars on the island either so it was very quiet and peaceful. We took our time walking across the island, enjoying the shade of the palm trees the whole way, and eventually came out on the other side. There we caught another “ferry” to Al Borgaig, a fairly big town on the other side of the Nile. And this was where the real exercise began. Kerma is outside of Al Borgaig, away from the river, so we had to walk across town and then through a bunch of agricultural fields to get there. I would estimate it was about 2 miles, which isn’t that bad, except there was no shade and in the middle of the day, that African sun really beats down pretty hard. Although I put on some sunscreen before we left Mashu, I ended up getting pretty burnt, but life goes on.

Anyways, we finally got to Kerma and it was quite an impressive site. Kerma was an important city throughout different periods of ancient Sudanese history. The history of Sudan is closely linked with the history of Egypt due to the close proximity of the two countries and the fact that the Nile flows through them both. In ancient times, there was an ebb and flow to their relations as one kingdom would conquer the other and vice versa depending on which empire was stronger at a given time. So there was a significant Egyptian influence in Kerma. Anyways, Kerma was a big city for its time and the buildings were constructed around a massive temple. The remains of the temple are the main attraction today and it is an imposing site. Northern Sudan is a very flat part of the world so while the temple remains are only about 5 or 6 stories tall, it is striking to see something that high in such a flat land. First, we checked out the museum which provided a great overview of Kerma through the different periods of history. It also had some different artifacts found during the excavations. The most impressive pieces were some old statues of Nubian kings found around Kerma. These statues, 6 or 7 in all, had been meticulously pieced together and were very cool. Unfortunately they didn’t allow pictures and a guard basically followed us around so I’ll just have to keep the picture in my mind. After walking through the museum, we made our way outside to the temple. Although it would have been possible and probably pretty fun to climb up the side of the temple, there were some steps and we figured that would be the better route to the top. The views from the top of the temple were very nice and provided an excellent view of the excavated remains of the city. All that’s left of the city buildings are the foundations but you can still get a good idea of the layout. After about 10 or 15 minutes, we decided it was about time to head back to Mashu. We went back the same way that we came and I was absolutely exhausted by the time we got back to Mashu. Still, I thoroughly enjoyed our trip to Kerma. From taking a ferry across the Nile to walking across the island to seeing some old ruins, it was another experience that I will never forget.

Although I wrote previously that this would conclude the three-part entry about my trip to Dongola, I realized that there is another fascinating experience I had that I must share with you all. The last night I was in Mashu we went to a Sudanese wedding and this experience deserves its own entry so hopefully I will write that soon. As for now, I hope everyone is enjoying the holiday season and I wish everyone the best.

The amazing people and simple life of Mashu

As I have written before, the Sudanese are generally very generous and hospitable to foreigners. While this is certainly the case in Khartoum, the people of Mashu and the surrounding villages took this sense of hospitality to a new level. While Dongola is one of the tourist destinations in Sudan, I don’t think too many foreigners make their way to Mashu and I kind of felt like a celebrity. When we first arrived in Mashu, Amar told me that I would be treated like a king, and he was right. It almost became a competition amongst the villagers and everyone wanted me to come to their home for tea or a meal. As I wrote in the previous entry, each meal during the Eid was at a different house and after every meal the host would shake my hand with a big smile and say, “Thank you so much for coming to my home.” It would often be in broken English or through Amar but the sentiment was quite clear. On the last day of Eid, we went to the house of one of Amar’s good friends for breakfast. When we arrived, he greeted me with a big hug and said, through Amar, “Jeremy! We have been waiting all morning for you to get here!” He seemed so proud to show me his house, simple though it may have been. Unfortunately we had to turn down several invitations because there were more invites than there were meals. One day, we were walking through another village to a house for lunch. There was a group of men sitting on the side of the road and when they saw me coming, they called me over and insisted I had a cup of coffee. One of the men then brought out his whole family to meet me and basically begged me to stay for lunch. Keep in mind this was a total stranger, even to Amar and his cousins. It took them some time to convince the man that we had to go to another house for lunch. Although he was disappointed that we couldn’t stay, he thanked me for drinking his coffee and I was just shocked by this man’s generosity. As we walked away and I marveled to Amar about the kindness of the people, he beamed with pride.

There were also many times where I was surrounded by people, usually kids or teenagers, who just wanted to hear me talk. It was obvious that my general appearance and language were hilarious to them because there were several times that they would say things in Arabic and then burst out laughing. It didn’t bother me because I have no idea what they were saying and laughter is always a good thing, even if they were laughing at me. It really made me wish that I knew Arabic because everyone wanted to speak to me but their English was rudimentary at best. However, there were a few locals who spoke English and I had several very interesting conversations. They always wanted to know my thoughts about Sudan and how my experiences contrasted with what we hear about Sudan in the western media. The Sudanese are very aware that their country isn’t painted in the best light in the west and I was happy to tell them how appreciative I was of the Sudanese hospitality and generosity. Many people that I met live in different parts of Sudan and I now have several standing offers to visit different cities and towns around the country.

As you might imagine, life is very simple in these small villages. Agriculture is the primary industry in the area and the Nile River definitely sustains the entire region. The main crops are wheat, beans, and greens that they feed the animals. Dongola is famous throughout Sudan for its dates and there are date palms everywhere. Whenever we walked around, we would throw rocks in the trees to knock down some dates, clean them, and eat them on the spot. Every house had huge sacks filled with dates. The dates were so tasty and I brought two big bags back with me to Khartoum. Many people live a rather primitive lifestyle. There is no indoor plumbing so the bathrooms are basically four walls built around a hole in the ground. They don’t have toilet paper, just a jug of water, so I’ll let you use your imagination to figure out how you clean yourself. Let’s just say there’s a reason why you only eat with your right hand. The “shower” is just an enclosed area with a bucket of water and a bar of soap. The area only got electricity about a year ago when a large dam was built nearby on the Nile. Even without all the so-called modern comforts, the people there have a joy for life. I have had similar experiences in other developing countries that I have visited and it never ceases to amaze me. It just proves that happiness does not come from our material possessions, but rather from human interaction with friends and family. The bonds between the people I met were very strong and everyone seemed to truly care for one another.

Even after only a few days, I honestly felt like part of the community. Everyone I met was so incredibly friendly; they seemed genuinely honored to welcome a foreigner into their village. Everywhere I went, people were telling me that I had to come back and visit them again. I will close with another story that really made me smile. One night after dinner in a nearby village, we were riding back to our house on a donkey cart (a pretty cool experience in itself). A truck drove by and the driver slowed down to say hello. As they drove by, I heard someone in the passenger seat say, “It’s Jeremy!” I have no idea who it was but it just typifies how welcoming the people were throughout my stay. I will never forget the incredible people of Mashu.

The Eid Holiday in Mashu

As I wrote in my last entry, I had a short break from school for the Eid holiday and had the opportunity to travel with my Sudanese friend Amar to his family’s village in Northern Sudan. Let me start by saying that this trip was one of the most incredible experiences of my life and one that I will never forget. I’ve been trying to think of creative ways to organize these blog entries about the trip but nothing has come to me so I am just going to start writing and see where it goes.

The bus ride itself was quite an experience. The drive from Khartoum to Dongola is about six hours of nothing but desert. At first there were some shrubs but after awhile it was nothing but sand. I’ve never seen desert like that before and it was really quite beautiful. There were some small groups of mud huts along the way and God only knows how the people living there survive. We stopped at a kind of rest area with some tents set up and people selling tea and snacks. I asked Amar if there was a restroom and he laughed and pointed to the desert. So I walked out behind the tent a little ways and I must admit it was pretty cool to look out over the desert while I was peeing. Another exciting event was when the bus broke down. We all got out while the driver and some other men tried to fix it and I was having visions of being stranded out in the middle of the desert. Fortunately the problem was fixed after only 15 minutes or so and we made our way to Dongola. Dongola is a state in Northern Sudan and the capital of the state takes the same name. We then took another van to Mashu, Amar’s village, about an hour north of Dongola. The van was packed to the brim and in true African style a couple of guys rode on the roof. There was a beautiful sunset over the desert and after a painful, bumpy ride (no paved roads outside of the capital) we finally arrived. I think word spread quickly that a khawaje (white person) was in town and many people came to see and say hello. After a traditional Sudanese meal of bread and fuul (a bean dish cooked with oil and spices), I got a call from my family back in the States (it was Thanksgiving), which was nice. After a long day of travelling, I was happy to go to bed early and get some much needed rest.

The next day was the start of Eid and the real festivities. Eid is a celebration of when Abraham was prepared to sacrifice his son Isaac but God gave him a ram instead. In remembrance of this event, Muslims around the world sacrifice sheep. The holiday lasts for three days and is like an extended Thanksgiving. Many Sudanese people return to their villages and then different households sacrifice sheep for a specific meal so each meal is eaten at a different house. In Sudan, breakfast is served around 11, lunch is around 5, and dinner is around 10. The house at which I was staying was responsible for breakfast on the first day of Eid so after everybody went to the mosque to pray in the morning, it was time for the sacrifice. While three people held the sheep down, the man with the knife said Bismila (In the name of God) and cut the throat. And when I say cut the throat, I mean he sawed through the windpipe and everything. There wasn’t as much blood as I expected but the sounds that the sheep made as the life went out of it were not exactly pleasant. But one sheep wasn’t enough for this meal so while two men started to skin the first sheep, another was brought out into the courtyard. As they brought the second sheep out, two people held up a sheet over the first sheep so the second one wouldn’t see his buddy lying there with his throat cut and freak out. After repeating the process with sheep number two, the serious work of cleaning and cutting the meat began. This was a group project and there were probably ten men working together. It was quite an impressive operation and after about thirty minutes all the meat was cut and ready to go.

While watching sheep get slaughtered was pretty cool, the real treat was the meal itself. Meat obviously doesn’t get any fresher than that and it was the best lamb I have ever had. There were four main lamb dishes: cubed meat that was spiced and grilled, meat on the bone that I’m not sure how they cooked, some kind of lamb stew, and grilled liver, which was surprisingly pretty good. Add some bread and a bowl of fuul and you’ve got yourself an Eid feast. All of this food was brought out on huge metal platters and everyone sat around them on the floor and dug in with their hands. When I say hands I mean hand because you only eat with your right hand. This was a little tricky for me seeing as I’m left handed but I managed okay. Also, my mother and sister will love this, the men and women eat separately. And every meal is followed by a delicious cup of tea. Although some households would add another dish, this same basic meal was served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner for three days straight. While I never thought I could get sick of lamb, I have to admit that after about the 6th or 7th meal I was ready for something different. But I certainly wasn’t going to complain.

I think that’s enough for one entry and as I’ve been writing, I think I have formulated a way to organize these blog entries about my trip to Dongola. This entry describes the Eid holiday, then I think I will write one about life in Mashu and the people I met there, and finally a description of my visit to the ancient site of Karma. This could certainly change but it sounds good to me now. So hopefully that’s a good teaser and I will try to write those other posts soon.

Teaching in Sudan

Since I’ve been teaching for almost a month now, I figured it would be good to write about my experiences in the classroom so far. I must admit, teaching primary school was not my first choice when I started looking for jobs, but so far I have really enjoyed it. While I don’t know the exact tuition fees, from what I’ve heard Cambridge is fairly expensive for a Sudanese private school so most of these kids come from families with some resources. Obviously, one of the biggest issues in the classroom is the language barrier. Although most of these kids have been studying English from a very young age, it is still their second language and many of them struggle with reading and vocabulary. Cambridge follows the British curriculum which is written for British kids, not children for whom English is a second language. Therefore, a big part of my job is adjusting the curriculum to their language level. So even though I am teaching Primary 3, the kids are not at the level of a typical 3rd grader. Thankfully, I have an assistant teacher who is Sudanese so he can speak to the kids in Arabic when they struggle to understand the material. He is also a big help with disciplinary issues. As in any school, discipline is a concern and I am still working out my own method of dealing with behavioral problems. Some of the other teachers who I observed were constantly yelling at the kids and that is just not my style. I can remember teachers that I had back in school who were always yelling and it became so commonplace that it lost its effectiveness. So I try to be firm without yelling at the kids and if they’re really getting out of hand, I can raise my voice and they know to calm down. However, my teaching style is definitely still a work in progress.
When I was in school, my favorite teachers were the ones who had a sense of humor and made class fun. So I try to make the kids laugh and as long as they are on task, I try to maintain an easy-going attitude. I am starting to pick up a few Arabic words, and the kids go nuts when I try to speak some Arabic to them. I’m sure my pronunciation is terrible and they just think it’s the funniest thing in the world. They are also fascinated by my freckles and red hair. I know this will be a surprise to anyone reading this, but there aren’t many redheads with freckles here in Sudan. Many of the kids want to touch my hair and see if it’s real. White skin in general is pretty wild to many of these kids and the freckles just totally throw them off. Since it can get quite warm in the classroom, I often roll up my sleeves and the kids point and ask, “What are those?!” Again, many feel inclined to touch my arm to see if they will rub off. And if I look crazy to these kids who are somewhat used to foreigners teaching at their school, you can only imagine some of the looks I get around town.
There are some challenges unique to teaching in a third world country. While Cambridge is better off than many schools in Khartoum, there is still a general lack of resources. The library is tiny, both in size and number of books. The school where I teach has about 300 kids and I would estimate there are about 200 books in the library. We are also only allotted fifty copies a day and with a class of 26 kids, that can be a problem. The power is also known to come and go throughout the day. It’s not a huge problem since there is always enough sunlight to keep the classroom illuminated but it can heat up in a hurry with no air-conditioning. It’s funny, whenever the power comes back on, all of the students cheer. You just have to be flexible, creative, and have a sense of humor about everything. Some of the teachers just complain all day every day and that is just not my personality.
Anyways, teaching in Sudan has so far been challenging and rewarding. I came to Khartoum to get outside of my comfort zone and to really challenge and push myself and I am getting what I asked for, which is a good thing. Working with kids can be very stressful but when they get excited about learning it really makes it all worthwhile. That’s all I have for now but my next entries should be pretty interesting. I have a week-long vacation from school after this week and I am going with my Sudanese friend Umar to his village in Northern Sudan. I am staying with his family and from what he says it is really rustic so it should be quite the experience. Happy Thanksgiving!

Sudanese Hospitality

I mentioned in my last blog that the Sudanese people are very hospitable. But to really put this hospitality into perspective, I wanted to tell you about my afternoon last Saturday. Saturday is the teacher planning day so I was at school in the morning but my roommate Yusuf and I planned to go into downtown Khartoum in the afternoon. So the driver dropped us off at the Western Union office just outside of downtown because Yusuf had to send some money to his wife in Cambodia. After taking care of this business, we were going to catch a cab down to the river. Interesting side note: none of the cabs here have meters. You just hail the taxi, tell him were you want to go, and bargain for a fair price. It’s kind of nice because then you don’t have to worry about how long it takes to get somewhere and it’s usually pretty cheap, but I digress. So we were standing on the side of the road waiting for a taxi when a random car pulls over in front of us. The Sudanese driver rolled down his window and asked us where we were going. We told him we were going to the river and he said something like, “No problem. I go that way. Get in.” We asked him how much and he just shook his head and opened the door. Now I know we are taught from a young age not to get in the car with strangers, but what the hell, he seemed friendly. As we made our way through downtown, he asked us lots of questions about where we were from and what we thought about Sudan. He really liked the fact that Yusuf, a white American, is a Muslim. In fact, he was so into the conversation and looking at the two of us, he wasn’t really looking at the road and we nearly drove into a pothole at one point. Anyways, we get down to the river safely and when he dropped us off, we tried to offer him some money but he would not take it. He took our hands and with a huge smile on his face said, “You are my friends.” He then drove off smiling and waving and honking the horn. I was overwhelmed by this man’s generosity. It was as if it made his day to help us out and talk to a couple of foreigners and it just made me feel so good. But our day of Sudanese hospitality did not end there.
So far, one of my favorite things to do in Khartoum is to just walk along the banks of the Nile and enjoy the view. There is a street called Nile Street (very creative) with wide sidewalks and plenty of trees for shade that runs alongside the river. However, in many places the road is set back from the river because there are strips of farmland maybe thirty yards wide on the riverbank. These little farms grow many of the vegetables that feed the city. It’s really cool because you are in a huge city with development all around, but here are these little farms on the banks of the Nile and you can imagine that hasn’t changed for thousands of years. Anyways, as we walked along Nile Street, there was a group of kids working in one of these little farms and they saw us and said, “Hello!” We stopped to say hello and one of the men came over and struck up a conversation. He was the owner of the farm and he spoke very good English. He told us to climb over the wall and check out his crops. His name was Ali and he was a retired officer in the Sudanese army but he said he liked farming better than the army. He was a very nice guy and we had a long conversation. We then heard the call to prayer (there are so many mosques in Khartoum, no matter where you are you will hear the call to prayer) and Yusuf went to pray with some of the workers in the field. I wish I had my camera because it really was quite a site to see the men praying in this little field next to the Nile River. The kids made a pot of tea and after the prayer, we all sat down and had some tea that was very tasty. I just couldn’t get over what was happening. Two American guys sitting in a field by the Nile River sharing a cup of tea with a retired Sudanese army officer and about 6 Sudanese kids. It just felt surreal. After the tea, everyone had to get back to work so they could finish before nightfall. So Yusuf and I said goodbye, but not before Ali gave us his number and told us to call him anytime if we needed anything. We then caught a cab back to our apartment and we were both just so amazed at the generosity of the Sudanese people. I will close with something that my friend Yassir said about the Sudanese people. Yassir is a college student here in Khartoum that Yusuf met at a local mosque and we have become good friends. He is from Syria but he has lived in Sudan for ten years. He said, “The Sudanese have a wide heart.” So true.

Welcome to Sudan

This is an appropriate title for my first entry from Sudan because I have heard that phrase from so many people. As I researched Sudan while I was considering accepting this job, I read many times that the people were incredibly friendly and hospitable and I have certainly found this to be true during my first week in the country. From the Sudanese teachers and staff at my school to the guys working at the market to my landlord to people in the street, everyone has been very kind. As many of you have probably experienced, this is not always the case in other countries and it has definitely eased the transition to this very different culture. So for this entry I want to give you an overview of my job and Khartoum in general.



I won't bore you with travel details but I will just say that it took forever to get here. It is not a great distance from Crete to Khartoum, but after overnight ferries, delays, and layovers, I was in transit for almost 36 hours from door to door. And let me just say that clearing customs in Sudan was an experience I will never forget. I know that is cryptic but I just don't feel like explaining that experience in detail. Anyways, Khartoum is about as different from Crete as you can get. A friend asked me my first impressions of Khartoum and my response was that it's flat, hot, and dusty. This is the "winter" time and it is probably 90 degrees in the middle of the day. They call this winter because apparently it gets to be 120 degrees in the summer. But it feels great in the evening and mornings and thank God for air-conditioning. It's also very dusty. The main roads are paved but all the roads within the neighborhoods are dirt, so yes, I live on a dirt road. And it is not the rainy season, hence the dust. And when I say flat, I mean literally no hills in sight. The main attraction in Khartoum, and it is quite the attraction, is the Nile River. In fact, Khartoum is the place where the Blue and White Niles converge before heading north through Egypt and into the Mediterranean. I must admit, seeing the Nile River for the first time gave me chills. There are many different boat and ferry trips one can take on the Nile so I look forward to doing that. Other than that, Khartoum is not the most beautiful place I have ever been, but it is still a fascinating place. In fact, I have already met two of the most interesting people I have ever met in my life, my roommate and my boss. They deserve their own post, but I will provide a basic introduction. My roommate is an American who left the States four years ago and has been teaching and travelling since. He became a Muslim in Cambodia and married a Cambodia woman and while I thought I had some interesting stories, he puts me to shame. We have already spent hours discussing life, travelling, religion, and many other things. My boss, also American, is the son of Eldridge Cleaver who was the Information Minister for the Black Panthers in Oakland in the 60s. After becoming Muslim, he left America in '99 and has been living and teaching across North Africa and the Middle East for the last ten years. I look forward to spending more time talking with him about his life.

As far as my job, I am working with young kids, which is a little different than I expected. I teach Math and Science to the 3rd grade class a couple times a week. Then my main job is to be a reading tutor to the kids who really struggle reading English. I meet with small groups of 4-6 for thirty minutes at a time and practice reading. Some can hardly read at all so I have to start with the basics and some can read fairly well so I can challenge them a bit more. English is a second language for these kids so they need lots of help. I think I can have a great impact on their education, which is an exciting opportunity.

This will be an incredible opportunity for me to learn about myself and a very different culture. Sudan is a Muslim country so one of my main goals is to learn about and study Islam. I never really had any Muslim friends growing up or in school. And while I took a class on Islam in college, that was before I became serious about academics and I really don't remember much. So my roommate gave me a copy of the Quran and I have been reading it every day. So as I continue my reading of the Quran and other books on Islam that my roommate and my boss have given me, I will try to write about my thoughts and experiences. I am also trying to learn Arabic and hopefully can learn enough to get around, we shall see.

Sudan is a Muslim country ruled by Sharia (Islamic Law), so that means no alcohol or pork products. I have been told their are places one can drink, specifically the British Embassy, but I haven't made it there as of yet. Although I was a little worried about this lack of access to booze at first, I think it will be a good thing. It will definitely be better for my health to avoid alcohol and I will spend more time reading and studying and doing other things rather than drinking. Since there is no alcohol, the nightlife is fairly limited. Most people spend that time with their family or friends just hanging out and talking. The only difference is they are drinking tea or juice instead of wine or beer. I have already spent many enjoyable nights discussing all sorts of things with Yusuf, my roommate, over a tasty guava juice.

Anyways, that is my introduction to my life here in Khartoum. I will try to write often but I do not have internet at my apartment so it will have to be on Saturdays. Here in Sudan, and in most Muslim countries, the work week is from Sunday to Thursday. Friday is the Muslim holiday and many shops and businesses are closed, including the school. Saturday is a planning day for the teachers so that is when I have time to use the internet. So I will try to stay in touch but please be patient with me. I also have to get a permit from the government to take pictures (I know, its pretty crazy) and I haven't had a chance to do that yet so hopefully I can get that soon and I will post some pictures. That's all for now. Alakum Salaam!

Next Stop: Africa

When I left Atlanta almost six weeks ago, I really had no idea where I was going to end up teaching. I wanted to teach in Crete but I was open to any number of possibilities. After being in Crete for about two weeks I realized two things. First, there weren't many teaching jobs in Crete. The school year had already started and apparently there are already lots of teachers on the island. And even if there were jobs, schools are much more likely to hire EU nationals since it is much easier for them to get work visas. In fact, there were three American girls who took the certification course in August and they stayed in Crete looking for work and still haven't found anything. Second, and more importantly, I realized that living in Greece would not present a significant challenge to me. Greece is a beautiful country and I absolutely love this place, but I have lived here before and I am very comfortable here. One of the main reasons I began this journey was to challenge myself and broaden my worldview and to be honest, that wouldn't happen in Greece. So I started thinking about other place I would want to live and I kept thinking about Africa. I have been to Kenya twice and I have always wanted to see more of that incredible continent. So I started looking for jobs teaching Enlish in Africa and found that most of them were in Northern Africa. One place that caught my eye was Sudan. All I had heard about Sudan was the Darfur conflict so I was suprised to see that there were English teaching jobs there. But after doing some research, I found that many parts of Sudan, including the capital Khartoum, were very safe and secure. So I applied to a job in Khartoum kind of on a whim. However, they got back to me and after a phone interview, offered me a job. I spent the next couple of days doing some serious research and some soul searching, I decided I would go for it. Living and teaching in Sudan will definitely present some significant challenges, but it will also be a great adventure and I know I will learn so much about myself and about a completely different culture. So as I said last night, this blog is about to take a very different turn. I will try to write as often as I can but I'm not sure about internet connectivity. I know there's internet at my school but we'll just have to see. So please keep me in your prayers as I embark on this next stage of my crazy odyssey. Next time you hear from me I'll be under the African sun!

Journeys in Crete II

So I left Hania last Friday and took the bus to Heraklion, the capital and largest city in Crete. First of all, the bus ride from Hania to Heraklion was spectacular. One of my favorite things since I've been in Crete has been driving/riding around the island. I have always loved driving through mountain roads. I think it goes back to my childhood when I would meet my grandparents in Dillsboro, NC and we would drive through the Appalachian Mountains along I-40 on the way to their home in eastern Tennessee. Something about those sweeping mountain views just moves me in a profound way and makes me feel connected to the earth in a very spiritual sense. Anyways, I got to Heraklion Friday afternoon and after checking into my hotel, I checked out the city. It is a big city and on the surface it is not as aesthetically pleasing as Hania or Rethymno. However, there are still some cool sites and I have enjoyed my time here. For starters, I visited the gravesite of my favorite author, Nikos Kazantzakis. Kazantzakis (author of Zorba the Greek and The Last Temptation of Christ, among numerous other works) was born in Heraklion and grew up in a village just outside of town. I first fell in love with his work when I was studying abroad in Athens and I read Zorba the Greek. I absolutely loved that novel and it has become my favorite book (I've read it at least 3 times). Since then, I have read most of his other novels and I am currently reading The Odyssey: A Modern Sequel, his sequel to Homer's Odyssey that picks up Odysseus' journeys after returning to Ithaca. I could go on and on about Kazantazakis, but I digress. His grave is on top of the old Venetian walls in Heraklion and it has gorgeous views of the city and surrounding countryside. It also looks down on the stadium of the minor league soccer team in Heraklion and I was able to catch part of a game while I was up there. There are also lots of beautiful churches in Heraklion and I have enjoyed checking out the icons and other artwork found in those places.

I have also taken a couple day trips into some mountain villages near Heraklion the last couple of days. First, I visited the village of Anoyia, about 1 hour southwest of Heraklion. My classmate at Via Lingua who was from Hania told me that Anoyia was a great example of a traditional Cretan mountain village so I made it a point to visit. Again, the journey to Anoyia through the mountains was spectacular, and the village was really cool. When I arrived, I just wandered through the streets and enjoyed the scenery (Picture #1). The village is divided into two parts, the lower village which is in a small valley, and the upper village which is essentially built into the side of a mountain (Picture #2). After exploring the village and taking in the beautiful mountain scenery, it started to rain, so I found a taverna recommended by my guide book and stopped in for lunch. The grilled lamb was spectacular and I tried some local wine as I waited for the weather to pass. It finally stopped raining so I continued my exploration and came across a really interesting WWII memorial. After the Battle of Crete in 1941, the Germans brutally occupied the island until 1944. However, there was widespread resistance to the occupation and Anoyia, due to its mountainous location, was a center of this resistance. Therefore, the Germans ordered the complete destruction of the village and executed all of the adult men. The monument had a statue with the name of those executed as well as the copy of the German order to destroy the village and it was a very interesting site. It started raining again so I found another local spot where some old Greek dudes were hanging out and drinking and joined them in the festivities. It was really funny as they kept trying to ask me questions and I did my best in my very limited Greek to converse with them. After about an hour, I had to catch the bus back to Heraklion but even with the rain, it was an enjoyable afternoon.

I also visited a village called Archanes located only 30 minutes south of Heraklion. Archanes is a wealthy farming village and is located in a lush, fertile valley that was extraordinarily beautiful(Picture #3) . After arriving in town, I hiked up a hill to an ancient Minoan site. Unfortunately, the site was closed for the day but the views were well worth the hike. On one side of the hill was a view of the valley and mountains, and on the other side was a view down to Heraklion and the sea. I walked through an olive grove and found a secluded spot that provided 360 degree views of the area (Picture #4). There was nobody else in sight and I just sat there for about half an hour enjoying the view and meditating on life. It was Sunday afternoon so I couldn't help but think about all the people back at First Pres getting to church and getting ready for the day. While I definitely miss everybody back at FPC, I couldn't help but think that I enjoyed my current setting more than FPC on a Sunday morning. Anyways, I slowly made my way back down to Archanes and explored the town. There were some cool little churches and lots of old houses and narrow streets to explore. I stopped at a local cafe for a coffee before catching the bus back to Heraklion. At least that was the plan. They told me the last bus back to Heraklion came at 6:00 pm so I was at the bus stop at 5:50. And I waited, and waited, and waited, but no bus. At about 7:00 I was getting a little worried and asked some locals what was going on. They seemed confused and assured me the bus would come. At 7:30 I thought I was screwed for sure and figured I would have to pay for a hotel room in Archanes, but a taxi showed up and offered a ride back to Heraklion for 10 euros. I jumped at this opportunity and was so thankful to make it back to the city. Even with that madness, it was a pleasant Sunday afternoon.

So that basically concluded my Cretan journey and this blog is about to take a very different turn. I take the ferry back to Athens tomorrow night and then I'm off to Africa. For those of you that don't know, I have accpeted a teaching job in Khartoum, Sudan. I will write one last blog entry tomorrow morning going into more detail about that. But for now, I'm signing off from Crete.

Journeys around Crete

Sorry for the lack of posts, I've been spending most of my time researching my next teaching job, but more on that later. So after finishing my TEFL certification course on October 9, I've basically been on vacation and it has been very nice exploring more of the island and relaxing. Since my hotel/apartment in Hania offered the room for 15 euros a night, I decided to stay there for a few days and take some day trips. My first trip was to Rethymno, a city on the north coast of Crete about an hour east of Hania. The main attraction in Rethymno is the Venetian fort built on a rocky hill above the city. It is supposedly the largest Venetian fort in the world and it was quite a magnificent site. I spent a couple of hours wandering through the massive structure and I particularly enjoyed walking around the outer walls and taking in the impressive views of the surrounding area and the sea (Picture #3). There were also these really cool lookouts built into the walls and of course, I had to climb in one and see what the defenders of Rethymno would have seen many centuries ago from their defensive positions (Picture #4). There were also several cool little churches scattered throughout the complex and one rather large mosque. Modern Greek history centers around the occupation of the Ottoman Empire and the subsequent battle for independence and its always interesting to see the two cultures side by side. Many churches were converted to mosques during Turkish rule and this still fuels some rather strong resentment among some Greeks towards the Turks. Anyways, after wandering through the fortress, I made my way down into the town. Rethymno has a Venetian harbor like Hania, only much smaller (Picture #2). I spent some time wandering through the old town and along the modern beach front avenue before making my way to the bus station and back to Hania. Rethymno was very nice. It's a city, but much smaller and more intimate than Hania and the Venetian fortezza was definitely the highlight.

The next day I tried to visit the small mountain village of Fournes. When I got on the bus, the bus driver didn't speak any English and I said Fournes but he looked kind of annoyed with me. So we headed out of Hania and through the beautiful surrounding countryside. We went through a couple small towns and headed towards the mountains. Since I've been travelling by myself, I like to put my headphones on and listen to some tunes as I watch the Cretan countryside go by. So as we go through another town at the base of the mountains, I think that it might be Fournes, but I didn't see any signs and the driver didn't stop so I figured that wasn't it. Well, we started heading back into town and it became apparent that I had missed my stop. I tried to ask the bus driver what the deal was but he just spouted some stuff to me in Greek and I really wasn't in the mood to argue. A student on the bus explained to me in broken English that I had to push the stop button to let the driver know when I wanted to get off. This was news to me as I had taken the bus in Crete before and not pushed the button, but this was the first time I was going to a small village not really frequented by tourists. Anyways, I basically paid 4 euros for a scenic drive through the countryside and decided that wasn't such a bad deal.

My final trip from Hania was to Stavros, a small beach community on the Akrotiri Peninsula 30 minutes outside of Hania. Stavros' main claim to fame is that several scenes from the movie Zorba the Greek were filmed there, including the famous last scene where Zorba and Basel are dancing on the beach. It really is a beautiful beach. It is a small lagoon set back from the sea with a steep rock face and moutains surrounding the far side of the beach (Picture #1). I spent the afternoon wandering around the area and just chilling out, relaxing and reading. During my travels in Crete, when I find a nice quiet spot in a beautiful setting, I really like to just have a seat, stare at the beautiful scenery, and think about all the people that have been there before me. It's also a nice time to just think about life. I actually really do enjoy travelling by myself. It is definitely nice to have someone to talk to, but the peace and quiet and solitude can be nice as well. Anyways, on Friday I had to pack up and leave Hania so the next group could move in. I absolutely love that city and I really enjoyed my time there. It was kind of sad to leave but I know I will return someday. More adventures in the next post!

Greek Culture

So it's been a really long time since I posted anything on this blog. I was pretty busy with class the last two weeks and didn't leave Hania either so I guess there wasn't too much to report. But now I'm done with class and figured I should catch up. First, I wanted to write about Greek culture. I don't think I'm gonna be staying here in Greece to teach so I figure now is a good time to write about the incredible culture of this country and Crete in particular. And when you talk about culture, what's most important? The food. I absolutely love Greek food. It's very simple cooking, not too many ingredients or crazy recipes. Just simple, fresh ingredients, a few spices, and always plenty of olive oil. Since Crete is an island, the seafood is particuarly good. My favorite is the octupus, usually cooked in oil and lemon and so so good. I also love the Greek salad. For those who may not know, a true Greek salad (village salad to the Greeks) doesn't have lettuce in it. Just fresh tomatoes, onions, green peppers, cucumbers, olives, feta cheese and oil on top. Feta cheese is everywhere here and it's good on most things. And it's so much fresher and tastier than what we get in the states. There's also lots of other Cretan cheeses that can be much stronger but still tasty. And of course, my staple throughout my time in Greece, the gyro. Again, different from the States, gyros here aren't made with lamb, it's either pork or chicken. I usually get pork but I won't frown on the chicken. The meat is then served on a pita with onions, tomatoes, tzaziki, and the real topper, french fries. There's a great place right by my school that served them for $2 a pop and I proably ate 20 of them during my time here. I could go on and on about the food, but the people really make up the culture. Greek people are a fascinating bunch. They tend to be talkative, expressive, and they take their time to do anything, except driving a car. And I love it. Getting a coffee takes at least an hour. A proper meal is minimum two hours, but usually more like 3 or 4. And nothing ever starts on time. But there is such an appreciation for what is really important in life. There is not a focus on getting ahead or working your ass off to make more money. In general, the Greeks would rather not work as hard and enjoy good food, good drinks, friends and family. For instance, most shops close at 2 pm for a 2 hour lunch break, then open back up at 4 until 6 pm or so. And everything, except the touristy stuff, is closed on Sunday. This certainly has its drawbacks, it can take forever to get anything official done with the government. But in general, I think this mentality creates a healthier, more relaxed lifestyle that I certainly appreciate coming from America. And another thing that sets Cretans apart is their hospitality. I have met and hung out with a few Cretans and they always insist on paying for everything. There was a girl from Hania in my class and one Sunday she and her boyfriend picked us up and took us to the Venizelos Tombs and then out for coffee. We all had coffee and snacks and Mannos, Maria's boyfriend, would not let us pay. He actually seemed offended. He told me that money just is not that important, that if he has it, he would rather spend it on his friends or new people than save it. And Maria told us this is a common belief among the Cretan people. Again, there would be some drawbacks to this mentality, but it's a breath of fresh air as an American. So I will miss this beautiful island and this welcoming culture, but I will always remember Crete and this definitely won't be the last time I ever come here. More to come on my journeys around the island this week.

Balos and Falasarna

So my course is halfway over and I can't believe it. There's so much going on right now it can be a little overwhelming but then I realize where I am, a huge smile creeps across my face, and I remember how fortunate and happy I am to be here right now. Anyways, I had an incredible trip across western Crete last Saturday. First, my classmate Gardiner and I wanted to rent mopeds and go exploring. However, after trying two different rental places, we found out you have to have a class B liscense to rent mopeds and neither of us had that. So, we decided to rent a car. Naturally, we went with the cheapest option, and you definitely get what you pay for. The tires weren't much more than spares and it left a little to be desired in terms of power but it got the job done (First pic, obviously). So we headed west along the coast where there is pretty conitnuous development until the Rodhopou peninsula. That's where the drive got really fun. I love driving on winding, mountain roads and these roads certainly fit that description. Plenty of hairpin turns as we made our way through countless olive groves and up the mountains. After one seemingly insignificant turn, the road opened up to a stunning view. We pulled off the road to a lookout and it gave me chills. Mountains to the left, sea to the right, the plain below us and the Gramvousa peninsula in the distance. It really was spectacular (4th pic, too bad my camera sucks). After soaking this in, we continued down the mountain and on to the Gramvousa peninsula. The Gramvousa peninsula is an uninhabited (except by goats) peninsula jutting out of the northwest corner of Crete. The only road is a rocky, dirt path and we started out on said road. However, as I said before, our car wasn't exactly a 4-wheeler and after awhile I was pretty nervous that I would bust a tire, or worse, and they had my credit card at the car rental place, so we pulled off, parked the car, and headed out on foot. This really wasn't so bad as the road was relatively flat and the scenery was breath-taking (3rd pic). Walking with the goats was also an enjoyable experience. After about an hour hike, we reached the top of Balos bay. When the view of Balos opened up before us, Gardiner and I were left speechless as the landscape is unlike anything I've ever seen (2nd pic). Words and pictures don't do it justice but check my Facebook page for some more pics. It was another 15 minute hike down to the bay and we were in paradise. We stopped at the one taverna for a beer and then spent an hour or so swimming, sunning, and taking in this magnificent locale. Yet there was more exploring to do so we started the hike back up the mountain which wasn't terribly fun. Although I was sweating profusely, cussing occasionally, and had to stop a couple times, the scenery definitely made up for any frustration with the steep ascent. We eventaully got back to the car and continued west to Falsarna, another beautiful beach at the base of the peninsula. More sweeping views were had and we explored Ancient Falasarna, founded in the 6th century BC. Gardiner is really into archaeology so he explored the site while I just enjoyed the views. We had to get the car back by 9 pm so unfortunately we had to head back to Hania. And if driving the mountain roads was exciting during the day, it was a little scary at night. Fortunately there weren't many other cars on the road s and we made it back without incident at 8:50. Truly an incredible day and it certainly didn't change my belief that Crete is one of the most beautiful places on Earth. I suppose that's enough for now but I look for another post on Greek culture (it definitely deserves its own post) soon. Yasou!

Georgioupoli

So our class had big plans to go to Elafonisi this past weekend which is supposed to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Crete. However, the people who were gonna drive backed out and nobody wanted to get up early for the bus so those plans fell through. I'm definitely still making it a point to get there sometime while I'm here. Anyways, I still wanted to get out of Hania for a day-trip so I proceeded to scan my trusty guidebook like a good tourist and found an interesting little fishing village east of Hania called Georgioupoli. So I convinced two of my classmates to join me and we caught the bus there Sunday afternoon. First of all, the countryside in Crete is absolutely stunning. Valleys covered in olive groves are surrounded by rocky mountains. It's just beautiful. And then you turn a corner and there is the sea, various shades of blue in the sunlight. I love being in the mountains and I love being by the ocean and this island has both so it really is like paradise for me. But I digress. After a 40 minute bus ride we made it to Georgioupoli, a small fishing village where the Almiros River flows into the sea. We made our way through the town square to the sea where we found a small chapel on a rocky outcropping in the bay that was connected to land by a narrow rock walkway. So of course we had to make our way out there. Sunday was quite windy so the waves crashed onto us as we clambered over the rocks. So we were soaked by the time we made it to the chapel but it was well worth the journey. After taking in the scenery we saw a hill to the west that needed to be climbed, we were in an adventurous mood. We made our way to the hill and followed a little path above the sea. We found what looked to be an old bunker and a cave that were quite interesting. But the highlight of the trip for me was when we reached the end of the path. It was very rocky but it looked like we could climb around the point and get an awesome view of the rocky cliff beyond this point. So we started climbing over these rocks which were fairly precipitous and there were some scketchy moments. I couldn't help but think that my mother would be terrified to see what I was doing and I must admit, that made me smile. But Mom, you would be happy, there were some rocks that looked like I could jump off but I wasn't positive about the depth of the water so I didn't do it. Anyways, we made our way over these rocks and the view around the point was definitely worth it. Unfortunately my camera was giving me issues so I didn't get in pictures but its probably just as good because a photo would not do it justice. For probably 2-3 miles the coastline was massive mountains of jagged rock that plunged directly into the sea. You couldn't build on it if you wanted to so there was literally no sign of human existence other than some towers on top of the distant mountains. Truly spectacular. After soaking in the sights for some time, we made our way back into town and had a wonderful meal at a taverna right on the river. Olives, grilled octupus, pork souvlaki, and spaghetti carbonara, an eclectic meal indeed. And of course, the house wine which was rather strong and unfiletered, you could see the particles floating in every glass, but it was very good. And then a beautiful drive back to Hania. It was a marvelous day. My memory card wouldn't let me take any pictures, i'm still trying to figure that out, but my buddy Dave took some so they're on my facebook page now, check 'em out. So now its back to school and teaching, but I am loving every day. I wrote someone earlier that the smile has not left my face since I came her so life is good indeed. And then there is the nightlife but that will be for another entry. Until then, Yasas!

First Impressions of the TEFL Course

Right now I'm sitting on my balcony, drinking an excellent Greek wine that was only 3 euros for a bottle, looking at the stars, listening to the waves...life on Crete is good. Anyways, my first week of classes is almost complete and I figured I should write on my impressions of the course so far. First of all, my classmates are a diverse group. There are four Americans (one from Minnesota, one from Maine, one from NYC, and this Georgia boy), two Canadians, two Greeks, and one South African. Needless to say, we have very different life experiences and worldviews which makes for lively discussions. My apartment is outside of town so we have a 40 minute walk to class every morning. But the first part of the walk is along the beach and the scenery makes it very pleasant. Class starts at 10, which is great because I'm not a morning person, and there is about 3 hours of instruction on teaching English. We will cover everything from methodolgy to classroom management to grammar and lots in between. Then an hour for lunch, so far lunch is either a gyro or a greek salad, and I think it will take a long time to get tired of either one of those. Then the afternoon is spent planning our lessons for the teaching lesson at night. I had my first student teaching lesson last night and it went really well. Its very different because you have to speak slowly and explain everything but I think the students got the point and my observer had mostly good feedback. I was definitely nervous but it felt good to get started and realize that I can definitely do this. I think this course will be very helpful when I start teaching on my own because while it is my native language, I certainly did not know about writing lesson plans, using visuals, creating handouts, etc. And after teaching, which ends around 9, we return to the apartment, drink some wine and hang out together. The good thing is we only teach two or three times a week and the other days, I am done around 1:30. So then I have the afternoon to explore Hania, relax on the beach, and generally enjoy island life. And the weekends are the time to go out and explore the island. This weekend we are going to Elafonisi, which is supposed to be one of the most beautiful beaches on the island so I will let you all know how that goes. Hania is also a very fun town for nightlife. We went out last Sunday night and had a blast. The island is known for raki, a liquor distilled from grape leaves with no additives that is very pure. The bartender at Zepos, the bar we went to right on the harbor, is friends with the director of our school so he welcomed us to Crete with plenty of free raki. So the night involved dancing and singing and an incredibly fun time. So things are off to a great start and I am so incredibly happy right now. I know this was the right decision for me to come here and I can't wait to see where this odyssey will lead. I hope all is well in the States and please keep in touch. Yamas!

Welcome to Crete

I feel so truly blessed to be here right now, this place is incredible. And while it is Sunday morning and I'm not at church, it is a very spiritual experience to look out at the sea and mountains and feel a constant breeze in your face. But enough preaching, I don't work at a church anymore. So I arrived yesterday morning and got to my apartment around 7:30 in the morning. My roommate Dave (he's taking the course with me) and I quickly realized we were just off the coast so we dropped off our bags and found our way to the sea. The combination of early morning sun, ocean, and spectacular mountains was a great welcome to the island. We walked up and down the beach for awhile, taking pictures and soaking up the scenery, and figured while we were out we might as well make our way into town. Our place is actually outside of town, maybe a 25 minute walk to the city center. So we zig-zagged our way into town and eventually made it to the old city. And the old city of Hania is incredible. Most of the buildings are from the Venetian era, 500-600 years old. And the "streets" are mostly narrow alleys, clearly built before cars were even a thought. It was such a unique experience to wander through the town with no map, just turning whichever way looked interesting and eventually coming out into the harbor. The harbor is magnificent as well. Remants of Venetian fortifications still stand along with an old lighthouse. After thouroughly exploring the old city, we made our way back to our apartment, stopping for a lunch of tasty Greek pizza and local wine. The walking, eating, and drinking made us pretty tired so in true Greek fashion, we spent the afternoon napping and taking it easy. We awoke to meet two of our classmates that had arrived next door, a young Canadian couple. They offered to cook us dinner and the evening was spent eating and talking. We discussed everything from travelling to politics to crazy work experiences and everything in between. We didn't even make it out but still a wonderfult first evening in Hania. Our program orientation is this evening. We meet the head of the school at 7 and she will take us into town, show us where the school is and go over the program. So until then it looks like I will spend the day on the beach and by the pool (I don't know if I mentioned, our aprtment has a pool as well). So the odyssey has begun in fine fashion. I am excited to begin classes tomorrow and continue exploring the city of Hania and the island of Crete. This is a magical place and the combination of clear blue seas and rocky mountains creates one of the most inspiring settings I have ever seen. I'll eventually post pictures on the blog but for now, check out my facebook page for the first photos. Let the odyssey continue!

From Atl to Crete

Wow! I'm sitting here on my balcony looking out on the Aegean Sea with the breeze blowing in my face and I must admit, if this isn't paradise, I don't know what is. Crete is such an awe-inspiring, beautiful place, words don't do it justice, but i'll try. But first, an update on my travels. So the last time I wrote I was sitting in the Atlanta airport, waiting to get on the plane. The flight to Frankfurt was long and bumpy, lots of turbulence, so I probably only slept an hour and was exhausted when I landed. But I went into the city anyway and Frankfurt, while not the best place I've ever been, is pretty cool. It's got a nice skyline and is right on the river Main, which is nice. The old part of town has some pretty old buildings and churches and I enjoyed walking around there for awhile. But I was so tired I just wanted to get back to airport and rest. On my way back to the train station, I found street vendors selling bratwurst and that made a nice lunch. After several hours in the Frankfurt airport, I finally caught my flight to Athens. And I must admit, it got me excited to get to Greece because I had the most attractive group of stewardesses I've ever seen (thanks Aegean Air). Anyways, I didn't get to my hotel until about 11:30 and was so tired I just crashed and it felt great to be in a real bed. Then I had Friday to get reaquainted with Athens. First, I met up with the woman who was in charge of my study abroad program when I was over there in college. It was great to catch up with her and things seem to be going along quite well at U of I. After a strong Greek coffee, I headed to the Acropolis. And although I've been there before, it truly is stunning to see such a famous site in person. So I wondered around and checked out the brand new Acropolis museum, which was awesome. The rest of the day was spent walking through central Athens, remembering my time there and being thankful that I was not staying. While the monuments in Athens are cool, the city is so huge and the development so sprawling, its just not very appealing. It's dirty, the traffic is nuts, etc. So I happily caught the overnight ferry to Crete and arrived yesterday morning. And what a fantastic day I had. In fact, since this post is getting rather long already, I will put this up and post another entry on my first day in Crete. Talk to you soon.

Here We Go

So I'm sitting here in the airport waiting to get on my flight and figured this would be as good a time as any to do my first post. Let me start by saying that I've never done a blog before so stick with me as I figure out. Second, I know Jeremys Odyssey sounds pretty cheesy but I am going to Greece so what the hell. And, I honestly donot know where all I might end up before this trip is over so while I know it's corny, I think it's appropriate. Anyways, I'm getting kind of nervous but mostly I'm just very excited. To be honest, this first part of the trip is gonna suck as I have a long flight ahead of me. First, an overnight flight to Frankfurt, nine hours long. Then, a nine-hour layover there which should be enough time to walk around, check out downtown, have a meal and a good German beer (or two) and then back to the airport. I don't get into Athens until 10 pm so I'll spend Thursday night there. Then a day in Athens and an overnight ferry to Crete Friday night. And then a couple days to get acclimated and then classes start on Monday. So I probably won't post again until I get to Crete but we'll see. Basically, this blog is for anyone who wants to know what I'm up to as I travel and teach and whatever else I get into. I think blogs can be a little pretentious sometimes so I'll try not to be preachy but just let you all know what I'm doing and a few thoughts about my experience. Feel free to comment or e-mail anytime, I will definitely miss all my friends and family. Here we go!